HangBoarding Gainz

This document is meant to serve as a way to track climbing progress through hangboarding measurements.

DISCLAIMER: Hangboarding is not a true measure of climbing skill per-se. It is mainly a metric to gauge finger strength, only one component of climbing.

That said, enjoy the images below. Always feel free to send me data :) Make sure to warm up with 5-10 easier climbs, <= 3 grades below your max. Rest day before. Send me dates, times, and types of holds. Try to use a beastmaker 2000 with the holds defined below. Make sure to engage your scapula (between the shoulder blades), keeping your shoulder back and elevated. Don’t hang on your skeleton!

Methods:

Hangboard used: Beastmaker 2000

Types of holds:

  1. 4 finger 1.25 inch edge

  2. 19 degree sloper (middle of top)

  3. 3 finger on 1.25 inch edge

Discussion

Between each recording, at least 3 minutes rest should be taken. Shake dat shit out (the lactic acid I mean). Good luck and don’t forget to breathe!

Results:

## ── Attaching packages ───────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── tidyverse 1.2.1 ──
## ✔ ggplot2 3.0.0       ✔ purrr   0.3.2  
## ✔ tibble  2.1.1       ✔ dplyr   0.8.0.1
## ✔ tidyr   0.8.3       ✔ stringr 1.3.1  
## ✔ readr   1.1.1       ✔ forcats 0.3.0
## ── Conflicts ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── tidyverse_conflicts() ──
## ✖ dplyr::filter() masks stats::filter()
## ✖ dplyr::lag()    masks stats::lag()